Legalize Pa’i ‘ai: The Movement to Preserve an Important Hawaiian Tradition
It is no secret that poi is an significant staple of Hawaiian cuisine and culture. What remains a bit of a mystery – and understandably a point of contention – is why the sale of its hand-pounded byproduct, pa’i ‘ai, continues to be forbidden under current law.
The Department of Health (DOH) claims that the traditional process by which pa’i ‘ai is produced renders it unsafe for public consumption. The law requires that food products intended for the public must follow specific preparation guidelines. These guidelines include cleaning the implements – in the case of pa’i ‘ai, the lava rock pounders and wooden boards – with bleach and other disinfecting chemicals. As the tools used to pound the pa’i ‘ai are designed and crafted with much care, they are of significant cultural value to the practitioners. According to a recent article in Honolulu Weekly, bleaching the implements or cleaning them with strong chemicals is in direct conflict with their spiritual significance and the traditional belief that the dried poi left in the pounder is what keeps the pa’i ‘ai from spoiling.
The DOH also requires food made for public consumption to be produced in a certified kitchen or processing establishment. Yet the law makes an exception for honey. Why should pa’i ‘ai not be granted a similar exemption?
The traditional staple is banned from store shelves and restaurant menus, while rare steaks and raw fish are served up and made available throughout the islands. Restaurants and shops serving these items need only include a warning label regarding the assumed risk taken by eating the “unconventionally” prepared products. Why is Hawaiian food not receiving the same type of protection under the law, that has been afforded to European and Japanese cuisines?
If the arguments of culture and comparison are not enough to convince you to support the legalization of pa’i ‘ai, Amy Brinker and her website, Indigenize the Law, offers several additional reasons. Brinker reminds us that the issue is not only one of cultural significance, but of survival as well, noting that “All visitors and citizens of Hawai’i face a troubling reality: if the ships stop coming, they will be starving”. Legalizing pa’i ‘ai is one more step towards a sustainable future for Hawaii. In addition, Brinker makes strong arguments for the green packaging alternatives of ti leaves as well as the consumer’s right to make informed food choices. Both of these points are directly linked to pa’i ‘ai and stand to gain ground if the hand-pounded poi product is legalized.
So what exactly are the “Poi Bill” supporters proposing? Simply put, they are asking for the same protection and respect that sushi, raw steaks, and honey already enjoy. If passed into law, bill SB 101, will exempt “the preparation of hand-pounded poi from certain Department of Health (DOH) requirements regarding food safety” and require that the pa’i ‘ai not produced in approved facilities to be labeled.
Will Hawaii preserve an important cultural tradition and move one step closer to sustainable living? This is looking like more and more of a possibility. On February 10, 2011, SB 101 passed from the House. By March 18, 2011, two out of three House committees passed the bill, but it was temporarily held up by the Consumer Protection and Commerce (CPC) Committee on the grounds of a “lack of enforceability and public interest”. The CPC was quickly proven wrong by the overwhelming support the bill received from hundreds of residents, the Office of Hawaiian Affairs, the Kokua Foundation, and even the DOH. As a result, the bill was scheduled to be heard by the CPC just yesterday, March 28, 2011. All representatives who were present agreed to recommend that the bill be passed, with amendments. Perhaps we will soon see pa’i ‘ai available in our local grocery stores and favorite restaurants, and know that an ancient tradition is not only being preserved, but celebrated and enjoyed by many.
To track the progress of SB 101/HB 1344, you may visit http://www.capitol.hawaii.gov/session2011/lists/measure_indiv.aspx?billtype=SB&billnumber=101.
To add your signature to Daniel Anthony’s (also known as Mana Ai) petition to legalize pa’i ‘ai, you may do so at http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/legalizepaiai/. Mana Ai’s pa’i ‘ai booth at the Ward Farmers’ Market was shut down and the pa’i ‘ai he sold to Town restaurant was seized in 2009, when the DOH deemed it unsafe for public consumption.
To find out more about Amy Brinker and her efforts to “Indigenize the Law”, visit http://site.legalizepaiai.com/Home.php
